I’d love to say that we are purposely staggering the blog
posts to give our readers an appropriate amount of time to digest each part of
our insane North American road trip. However, the truth is we've been running
ragged from one job interview to the next in search of the right fit for us as
we look to settle down more permanent roots here in PA. If you want to know how
it’s going I can sum it up in one word: BUSY! I won’t bother giving details,
one of us will just let you know where we'll be whenever it is that we figure
all that out.
Now, onto more pressing issues, the much anticipated second leg of our journey. When we left you last, we were just reentering the good old continental U.S. of A. It was great to be back. Cheaper gas, no more fake money that may or may not smell like maple syrup, and we were done with the God awful metric system. Ahead of us was the promise of a new National Park, a familiar city, and the wide open spaces that define Montana.
Our National Parks tour began with a chilly 29 degree
entrance to Glacier National Park. We knew we only had limited time in the park
as we drove along the 10 mile long Lake MacDonald towards Avalanche Creek. We
set out on a 4 mile hike to Avalanche Lake, but first came across a sweet
looking gorge that was carved and smoothed by the glacially fed waters that
flow through it.
The shaped rocks of Avalanche Gorge |
After taking pictures from every possible angle, we made our way through the spruce, cedar, and cottonwood lined trail. Avalanche Lake is fed by the Sperry Glacier runoff. Interestingly enough, you can’t actually see the Sperry Glacier because it is positioned below a ridge on the far side of the lake. In this snow covered natural amphitheater you are surrounded by rock faces which cause the sound of your voice to reverberate seemingly without end. Despite it being only November 1st, this scene was more representative of Winter than Fall.
While we wish we had more time to spend at Glacier, we were
excited for the next stop, Missoula, MT. For those of you that follow our
adventures, you should recall that we stopped in Missoula on our way to
Washington. We absolutely love this city. It is not overwhelming like most
cities, has great places to hang out, and friendly people everywhere you go. As
we thought back on our two years of travelling, it was a shame we never got a
position in or around Missoula because that would have been an awesome experience.
We didn't dwell on what could have been though. There wasn't enough time. Before
we knew it, we had to move on yet again.
Our goal for Day 8 was to take the scenic route from
Missoula to Salt Lake City, UT. Unfortunately, we made a wrong turn going
through Idaho and took the VERY scenic route. While we got to our destination
safely, it was not without a little stress. Thankfully the stress was relieved
by the scenery of the Salmon River, lava fields, and snow-capped mountain
peaks.
Diamond Peak riding above the clouds |
It was kind of crazy driving into Salt Lake City because
they have this weird toll system. It looks like you have to have Utah's version
of EZ Pass to be on the highways, but from the little bit we understood it
seemed that you could bypass the tolls by using the carpool lane. It's an odd
system, but we made it safely and didn't have to pay any tolls. I'm still waiting for a
series of tickets to come in the mail, but so far I'm in the clear.
The beehive is a symbol of industry that is found everywhere, including road signs. |
In Salt Lake City we were visiting Amanda's childhood
friends Derek and James Butcher. She knows them from her years vacationing at
Quimby Country in Vermont. Derek lives in the city while James flew in from
Colorado just to see Amanda. Amanda and her friends caught up, we had dinner,
went bowling, and then had a second dinner. Bowling was clearly the highlight.
James LOVES bowling. It is pretty much assumed that anytime James visits Salt
Lake City he is going bowling. He did win 3 out of 4 games, but I take pride in
the fact that I was the only one to knock him off the top of the standings,
even if only once. Overall, it was a fun and food filled night on the town.
What a good looking bowling crew! |
The thing that surprised us the most about Salt Lake City
was the weather. When we arrived on Saturday, November 2 it was 67 degrees and
I was wearing shorts. When we awoke on Sunday to leave, it was frigidly cold
and absolutely dumping snow. That made our morning drive painfully slow, but we
made it through the snowstorm unscathed and into the red rock wonderland that
is southern Utah.
Southern Utah was the part of the road trip I was most
excited for when we set out 9 days prior. There are 5 National Parks, world
class hiking trails, extreme landscapes, and 5 NATIONAL PARKS!!! We set up shop
in Moab, UT for 3 days and 2 nights while we explored Arches and Canyonlands
National Parks. As its name would imply, Arches National Park is known for
large sandstone structures which have been carved by wind and rain into the arches
seen below.
It’s a long story to describe how an arch is formed, but I’m
going to tell you anyway. Millions of years ago the area that is now southern
Utah, was an inland sea. This sea formed and evaporated at least 29 times,
leaving behind large deposits of salt each time it went away. This super thick
layer of salt was then covered by sand and other erosive particles. This layer
of sand became thousands of feet thick and eventually the weight from the top
layers of sand turned the lower levels into rock. This rock remained stable
until the pressure from its immense weight caused the underlying salt to
liquefy. When the now mobile salt reached the Moab Fault, it bulged upwards
fracturing the sandstone above. Over time, weak spots around the cracked
sandstone were eaten away by wind and rain, resulting in the formations you see
today. Eventually these rock formations
will erode away, so enjoy them while you can!
During our second day at Arches, we went on a ranger guided
tour of the Fiery Furnace. This is a labyrinth that travels through fins of
sandstone. It is home to creatures such as mountains lions, mule deer, and
kangaroo rats, as well as vegetation like Utah junipers, rabbit brush, Mormon
tea, and pinyon pines.
More fun facts:
More fun facts:
- Kangaroo rats never drink water during their lives, even in captivity. They conserve enough water from the food they eat to live and excrete only a solid uric acid crystal as needed.
- Utah Juniper berries are used to flavor gin
- Mormon tea is one of a family of plants from which the drug Ephedra can be harvested
Anyway, back to the action. The Fiery Furnace tour forces us
to climb over, under, around, and through the surrounding sandstone. It was a
blast, but I’m thankful we had a ranger with us because it would have been very
easy to get lost or turned around. We made it out safely and quickly hiked over
to Landscape Arch, the largest known arch in the world with a span of 306'.
While Canyonlands is only about a 45 minute drive from
Arches, it is a very different park. We chose to explore the area called Island
in the Sky. It is at a significantly higher elevation and is filled with an
infinite series of canyons, mesas, and buttes. We hiked our hearts out here
completing 5 different trails, each with unique features to behold. We had
scenic overlooks, slick rock scrambling, craters of unknown origins, an arch,
and even an ancient Puebloan granary. We were absolutely exhausted at the end
of the day, but experienced about as much of the Island in the Sky at
Canyonlands as is humanly possible.
Amanda enjoying one of the best views in the park |
Thousands of years ago grain was stored here. Now Charlie trespasses here. |
We were reluctant to leave Moab since we had so much fun
here, so we decided to do one more side trip. We did a little off-roading in
our filled to the brim Ford Escape so we could check out a hot bed of dinosaur
fossils which have been left exposed for public viewing. I give all the credit
in the world to the paleontologists who discover these things. How they find
them is beyond me. Even though the signs at the Mill Canyon Dinosaur Trail
specifically tell you where to look, I still couldn't find some of what they
were describing. I can’t even imagine
trying to find them on my own. The ones that were readily viewable were really
interesting though since neither of us had ever seen a natural fossil up close
and personal. It was well worth whatever damage was done to our car’s
suspension.
A Sauropod vertebrae: one of the fossils I could actually find |
As we headed west across Utah, we made sure to pass through
Capitol Reef National Park. This was the quickest National Park visit we have
ever made, but still a worthwhile detour. Aside from the always impressive rock
formations southern Utah is known for, Capitol Reef offers roadside views of
ancient petroglyphs. The Fremont people who lived in this area about 2,000
years ago etched images of people and animals into the rock walls which have
been well preserved and are easily visible today.
Art class from over 2,000 years ago. |
With the sun setting and temperature dropping into the
teens, we made a beeline for Bryce, UT. Following a good night’s sleep, we were
ready to attack Bryce Canyon National Park. Despite its name, Bryce Canyon
isn't actually a canyon. It’s a series of natural amphitheaters that have
combined to form a beautiful and ever evolving chasm. The layers of sedimentary
rock have been worn away into delicate looking hoodoos and spires which rise
from the walls and floor of this immense landscape.
A little snow, a lot of beauty |
While driving along the main road through the park, each
viewpoint is just as breathtaking as the last. The best part though was
following the Navajo and Queen's Garden Trails deep into the canyon. It gave us
such a different perspective than the overlooks and allows you to appreciate
how impressive this place truly is.
Among the hoodoos |
We didn't initially know what to expect from Bryce Canyon.
We honestly didn't think it would be that big of a deal, but it ended up being
one of the most memorable stops along our whole road trip. I would love to go
back there and explore further. Plus, going to Bryce gives you the chance to
repeatedly use the word "hoodoo". I love saying that word. HOODOO!
Having left the hoodoos behind, we made our final stop in
Utah, 2 days at Zion National Park. Zion is most known for the beautiful valley
that was carved out by the Virgin River. Photographers from all over the world
set up shop throughout the park to capture the stunning sunsets that illuminate
the valley walls. Aside from the picturesque scenery, this park is home to two
of the most well-known hikes in the United States, Angel's Landing and The
Narrows.
First we tackled Angel's Landing. This is a 1,488 foot rock
outcrop whose summit provides unobstructed panoramic views of the Zion Valley.
This is a strenuous, though well-traveled climb which includes rocky terrain
and series of steep switchbacks. One such section is Walter's Wiggles which has
21 consecutive switchbacks that ascend over 800' vertical feet (more than half
of the overall elevation gain) in a very short period of time.
After this climb we came to what we thought was Angel's
Landing. We were certainly tired enough to think it should be the end of the
trail. It turns out we were just at Scout Lookout and still had a half mile
more to go. A very treacherous half mile. The last part of the trail follows a
narrow path with sheer drops on either side. There are chains to hold onto for
balance, but in reality, those chains just give you a false sense of security.
Since 2004, 6 people have fallen off the cliffs and plummeted to their deaths.
A very comforting sign informs you of this before you set off.
Seeing this makes you feel all warm and fuzzy inside |
Yep, a half mile onto that. For the record, a horrible idea. |
We carefully navigated the ridiculously narrow trail all
while wondering, "Who thought this was a good idea?" When we finally reached
Angel's Landing though, we understood why people risk their lives for this
vantage point. It was absolutely spectacular, especially with the clear blue
sky as a backdrop and sunshine lighting up the valley below.
Zion Valley on a perfect day |
We ate lunch, while making sure the bold ground squirrels who
reside here didn't steal our food, before we made our way back down. The hard
part is watching your step while not looking down so much that you see just how
far you would fall should you slip.
Safely back on the ground, we made our way towards the
Narrows. First, you follow a well maintained trail along the banks of the
Virgin River. The Fall colors were still prominent on the trees lining the
river and the water was rushing past us in areas of whitewater rapids.
Normally, once you reach the end of this trail, you would continue on hiking
through the river itself. This path takes you between canyon walls that extend
over 2,000' above you while wading through knee to chest deep water.
Unfortunately, the water was so cold that only those fitted with dry suits were
able to continue on. Since we did not have the proper gear, we could only take in the
scenery before heading back. I want to come back to Zion someday just for the chance to
complete this unique excursion.
I relished the two nights of camping at Zion. Due to
unexpectedly cold temperatures in the previous National Parks, we were unable to camp as much as I would have liked. However, I understood that sacrificing
camping experiences was a better option than turning Amanda into a 5'2" long
popsicle. With the milder temperatures at Zion, we could again enjoy a roaring campfire,
brisk fresh air, and sleeping under the stars.
The time passed all too quick and just like that we were off
once again. On day 14 we were leaving Utah behind us as we headed for the most
visited National Park, Grand Canyon. However, I think I've taken up enough of
your time for now. Thank you for humoring me as I rambled on about how amazing
Montana and Utah were. We'll let this leg of the journey sink in before
starting the next. Who knows, maybe we'll have jobs locked down when we get to
Part 3! Or maybe not. You should know by now how this process goes.